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Martinique, Dominica, Iles des Sante, Guadalupe February 15, we set sail for Martinique from Rodney Bay. The winds were still up in the 25 to 30 knot range so again we set off with a reef in the main on a broad reach. We were in and anchored in the main harbor by late afternoon. Since customs was already closed at 4 pm we opted to take a walk around the lovely town. We stopped and enjoyed some Pan du Chocolate and espresso just to get in the French mood. After checking in with customs on Friday we ventured around Fort du France and had our GSM cell phone activated. Another story in communications frustration. We were able to make a number of calls out to family but no one stateside was able to crack the international dialing code. Martinique's phone system is part of the French communications system and therefore one calls there almost as if you were dialing France. To complicate matters the island phones have six digits not seven as in the states. The USA phones think there is a missing digit. Julie at one point got to speak with an elderly lady in France who spoke no English. The hardest part of this trip has been negotiating the phone systems and the frustration of not being able to speak with friends and family without a major hassle. Later in the Day we crossed across the lay and anchored at Anse Mitan a lovely resort area. We were reminded of the French Riviera but with lovely sandy beaches. We spent Friday and Saturday here. On Sunday morning we were off at first light for Dominica. We had about twenty miles to go up the Martinique coast then across the 26 miles between the islands. We motor sailed up the coast in the lee of the islands tall mountains and Volcano. We were advised to start the passage between the islands with a reef in the main because of the strong winds which are funneled between Martinique's and Dominica's mountains. The advice was good. We had 20 knot winds but relatively smooth seas and a fast reach that got us to Rousseau by early afternoon. We were making such good time and enjoying the sail we decided to continue up the coast to Prince Rupert Bay. The sail up the coast was pleasant. We arrived in about 4:30 in the afternoon. Seventy seven miles in a little over 8 hours not a bad day! Here again in Dominica we were greeted by "Boat Boys". However, it was a much more pleasant encounter. Dominica has organized these fellows and requires that they be registered and certified to be a "Guide". We met a pleasant fellow named Pope whose real name was David. He took us on a guided tour of the Indian River where the Carib Indians once lived. It was a beautiful experience and we learned a lot. Later that day ( Monday March 19) we set off for Iles de Sante. These are a lovely cluster of islands not far from Guadalupe. Again we were charmed by the French flavor we found here. By the 21st we were headed to Guadalupe only a few hours away. We were settled into the Marina at Point a Pitre by midday. Our Friend Jim Bloom joined us the following day. We left the anchorage and dropped anchor near the first of the Bridges on the River Salee which divides Guadalupe in half. The first bridge makes it's daily opening at 5 AM and the second bridge opens 20 minutes later (manned by the same man who drives from one to the other.) After passing through the bridges about a mile apart it is a easy trip through the mangroves for a number of miles. The river opens up into a broad body of water reminding us of Biscayne Bay. You must follow the channel markers carefully so as not to run aground. |