This leg of our trip was quite diverse. We traveled the history route to Yorktown, crossed the Bay to Cape Charles compliments of a Northeast wind, flew to Tangiers on a beam reach to devour Crab Cakes and Clam Fritters and then took a lazy afternoon sail back across the Bay to begin our adventure on the Potomac.
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On May 1 we departed Portsmouth and headed out into the Bay bound for Yorktown on the Northern side of the peninsula created by the James and York rivers. We heard much about Yorktown and the famous Revolutionary Battle. Not only was it a famous land battle but a naval one as well. So, again we played adventurers as we turned into the immense opening of the York River.
West Branch of Wormley Creek off York River
We decided to anchor in Wormley Creek, a wonderful shallow creek a short distance up the York where Stu visited some time ago. Well, you might ask, "How shallow is shallow?" Shearwater ran aground several times in 3 feet of water as we felt our way up the channel to a small deep pool. The area is quiet and secluded. There is a fleet of miniature cutters at the Coast Guard Training Center here. This is where new recruits learn to drive boats.
The morning after our arrival we were visited by several small deer out for a morning romp. We couldn't believe our eyes as the deer came out to drink water only a few feet from the boat. Domino, of course, was only mildly impressed.
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We took Peep, our dingy, on our excursion into Yorktown. We loved our anchorage and the river near the Yorktown shore is very shallow. We would have to dingy in anyway. Yorktown has no dingy dock so we found a spot along the seawall and took our chances.
When we returned to the boat that evening we noticed the sky getting dark and the air was extremely humid. Thunderstorms were certain. The weather service posted a tornado warning so we prepared for the worst. We were in a very sheltered place. The thunder, lightning and howling winds surrounded us all night long. In the morning the boat was covered with leaves and twigs. The radio told of 75 mile an hour winds along the river with tornado damage directly across the York in Gloucester. Schools and business were closed because of the damage in the area and places south and west of us. We were very fortunate.
We plowed our way out the creek. Between the shoaling of the channel and the width of our beam, it was touch and go until we were out into the river once again. Our goal was the eastern shore of the Chesapeake, Occohannock Creek or one of the small bodies of water North and East on the opposite shore. It became obvious as the Shearwater came out of the sheltered anchorage, the winds were not in our favor.
On to plan "B"... Cape Charles is almost directly east of the York River. We had a brisk but bumpy reach across the Chesapeake. We were greeted on the radio by the Harbor Master as we sailed into the inner channel looking for a sheltered anchorage. Cape Charles offers courtesy docking during the day to visiting boats. This is and old town just beginning to redirect it's attention to tourism from their former role as the major Eastern Shore rail terminus. Based on our welcoming experience and fine meals we wish the town well. We had such a nice visit that afternoon we decided to spend the night. The Chesapeake Bistro on Water Street with Robbin Smith owner, chef and host and his one 13 year old busboy served us and outstanding dinner. The cats also rated Cape Charles with stars. The Harbor Master, a cat lover no less, treated Domino and Jez to live crabs.
The winds shifted over night to easterly at 15 to 20 knots. Tangier Island our next destination was almost due north of us. Perfect for a brisk beam reach. We averaged 9+ knots making the 50 mile trip go by quickly. Tangier is the Soft Shell Crab capitol of the world. It has a large well maintained fleet of Crabbing Boats. People come by ferry and airplane just to dine on the famous seafood.
We headed back across to the West side of the Chesapeake Bay following an early Sunday dinner at Hilda Crockets in Tangier. The wind directed us to Smith Point on the tip of the South side of the Potomac River. We settled in for a pleasant quiet evening on the Wicomico River. The anchorage was dotted with multicolored crab trap floats. it looked like someone had strewn M and M's on the water. Tomorrow we'd head up the Potomac.
Smith Point Light